It turns out that dry scalp is NOT the cause of your flakes.
Dandruff has been my big secret since I
was a young girl. On wash days, my mother would sit me down in the
living room, turn on a Disney movie, and scratch the flakes out of my
scalp before shampooing my hair. But I never really knew what causes
dandruff. My mom would mumble on and on about how I inherited the flakes
from my father and my grandfather, who have both used Head &
Shoulders since before I was born.
Going
to the hair salon, I always felt I needed to explain. "Sorry about the
flakes! I have a really bad scalp," is the way I would preface any trip
to the shampoo bowl. And through my years as a beauty editor, I’ve found
that there are a lot of misconceptions about dandruff. It's a common
scalp annoyance that no one really understands. So, SELF talked to two
pros to bust all the myths about itchy, flaky scalps. Keep reading to
get down to the root of the problem and to find out what causes
dandruff.
What causes dandruff?
“Skin
cells on our scalp (just like those on the rest of our body) are
constantly replaced and shed,” Anabel Kingsley, a trichologist at Philip Kinglsey Trichological Clinic,
tells SELF. “If skin cells begin to divide too rapidly—faster than they
are shed—this is what causes flakes.” The overgrowth of cells can cause
buildup on the scalp that flakes off: dandruff. Some people are
sensitive to a yeast called malassezia furfur that naturally exists on
the scalp, explains Christine Choi Kim, M.D., a board-certified
dermatologist in Santa Monica, CA. According to Mayo Clinic,
this sensitivity can lead to the growth of extra skin cells that
collect and flake off. There also seems to be a genetic predisposition
to flaking, Choi says, so dandruff tends to run in families (see: mine).
Now allow us to clear up a few common misconceptions about dandruff with help from the scalp pros.
Myth #1: Dandruff comes from having a dry scalp.
Actually, having an oily scalp is more
likely to lead to dandruff. Malassezia are lipophilic, meaning they love
the oil (sebum) your skin produces and thrive when there’s more of it.
Excessive oil production can lead to sebborheic dermatitis, which gives rise to flakes.
Myth #2: Using an oil treatment will make dandruff better.
A hot oil treatment
is one of the DIY remedies I found while searching for dandruff
solutions on the internet. To see the effects, you're supposed to apply
warm coconut or olive oil directly to the scalp. But does it work? “As
dandruff is usually oily already, applying more oil will simply give you
stickier and greasier flakes,” says Kingsley. “Rubbing oils into the
scalp can also cause irritation.”
Myth #3: You should scratch away any flakes before shampooing.
Flashback
to my mom using a rattail comb on my head to dislodge the flakes. But
talking to Kingsley, I realized that this wasn’t the right strategy. “If
your flakes are so adherent and heavy that they need dislodging with a
comb, chances are you have a different and more serious scalp
condition,” says Kingsley. (More on that later.) “Harsh or improper
removal of scales can be painful and cause bleeding.” And bleeding
leaves your scalp susceptible to infection.
Myth #4: You should wash your hair less often if you have dandruff.
You
should actually shampoo daily to rinse away the flakes and debris. If
this doesn’t fit into your schedule, you can apply a clarifying toner
like Philip Kingsley Flaky Scalp Toner ($36, philipkinglsey.com).
“In order to reduce the levels of this yeast, use a daily scalp toner
and shampoo containing an anti-microbial agent that specifically targets
it,” says Kingsley. Also look for a shampoo with active ingredients
like piroctone olamine (which is in this Klorane shampoo) or zinc pyrithione (like in Neutrogena T-Gel).
Myth #5: You don’t need to exfoliate your scalp.
“Applying
an exfoliating scalp mask once to twice a week will help speed up
recovery from a dandruff flare-up and can also help prevent them,” says
Kingsley. “Exfoliating masks gently lift away flakes and helps to return
the rate of skin cell turnover on the scalp to a normal, healthy
level.” But stay away from DIY scalp exfoliators with sea salt as a main
ingredient since it can irritate the skin. Instead, Kim recommends
using a product that has salicylic acid or hydrocortisone like Scalpicin
($8, drugstore.com).
Myth #6: Your styling products are making it worse.
There
are lots of things that can spur on your dandruff—genetics, stress,
your diet—but your styling routine isn’t one of them. Just make sure to
rinse your hair of debris as often as possible (meaning daily).
Myth #7: Dandruff does not affect hair growth.
“Research
and studies have shown that a flaky scalp can cause and/or worsen hair
fall in certain individuals,” says Kingsley. If your scalp is in bad
shape it can adversely effect hair growth. And thick, scaly patches can
also attach to the hair follicles causing fallout.
Myth #8: Dandruff is worse in the summer.
Winter
is typically the time when flakes kick up. “People tend to eat more of
the foods that commonly trigger dandruff during winter,” says Kinglsey.
“These include full-fat dairy products, sugary and spicy foods, and
champagne.” The colder months are also the time of added stress
(holidays with the family). And most people cut down on shampooing due
to the cold temperatures, which can also make flakes worse.
Myth #9: All flakes are a sign of dandruff.
Seborrheic
dermatitis is another condition that can cause dandruff and flaking of
the scalp. SD usually appears as “thick, sticky, yellow-colored flakes.”
It can also be itchy and inflammatory. Kim also notes that seborrheic
dermatitis is not just limited to the scalp. You can find flaky patches
in your brows, beard, ears, chest, and other skin folds.
Scalp psoriasis
is another dandruff-like issue, but it looks a little different.
“Psoriasis is an autoimmune condition. It causes a build-up of dark
plaques,” says Kingsley. “Unlike dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis,
psoriasis is often not itchy.” Typically if you have psoriasis on the
scalp, you’ll also see patches on your elbows and knees.
So, how can you get rid of dandruff?
There's
no cure for dandruff. However, there are plenty of products to help
manage your flakes and control the malassezia furfur yeast that causes
them. Try using a shampoo like LivSo Moisturizing Shampoo ($19, livso.com) or Head & Shoulders Smooth and Silky Shampoo ($6, target.com).
Used daily, these products help exfoliate the scalp and get rid of
flakes. If these shampoos don't work after a month or so, it's best to
consult your dermatologist to find out if your itchy scalp is caused by
something more serious.
