Find out which products dermatologists recommend at every age.
The skincare routine you used in your 20s isn't the same thing you need as you move through your 30s, 40s, or 50s. Not only is your skin constantly changing (both inside and out), but also the amount of time and money you're willing to spend on your face is forever in flux. So SELF talked to three dermatologists to see what they recommend for their clients at every age. (Spoiler alert: Every one of them said SPF is a daily requirement in every age group). Keep reading to find out how to build your best skin-care routine, and get our editor-approved product recommendations, too.
The skincare routine you used in your 20s isn't the same thing you need as you move through your 30s, 40s, or 50s. Not only is your skin constantly changing (both inside and out), but also the amount of time and money you're willing to spend on your face is forever in flux. So SELF talked to three dermatologists to see what they recommend for their clients at every age. (Spoiler alert: Every one of them said SPF is a daily requirement in every age group). Keep reading to find out how to build your best skin-care routine, and get our editor-approved product recommendations, too.
skincare-every-age_20s
You’re busy building your career and enjoying your postgrad life, so you don’t have time for a 10-step skin-care routine. When you’re living the #NoWorries life, it’s about minimalism. And having great skin is more about how you live your life overall. “Maintain a healthy lifestyle with adequate sleep and healthy eating, while keeping stress levels down,” says Julie Russak, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in NYC. “The skin is at its peak in the 20s with strong collagen production and oodles of elastin, making it plump and firm." Your 20s are all about taking a preventative stance—good habits now mean better skin in the future. Here's how to start.
An acne-fighting treatment: If you’re dealing with breakouts, try a cleanser or spot treatment that has a boost of salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. These active ingredients will help get rid of acne-causing bacteria and calm an oily, acne-prone complexion. Try Aveeno Clear Complexion Foaming Cleanser ($7, ulta.com).
A SPF moisturizer: The foundation of any good skin-care routine is SPF. “Sunscreens are your first line of defense against UV damage,” Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mt. Sinai Hospital in NYC, tells SELF. “They prevent UV light from penetrating skin and minimize free radical damage, which can cause premature aging.” And we know that UV rays are the culprit behind 80 percent of the visible signs of aging. Wearing SPF 30+ daily is also crucial to preventing skin cancer. We like La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ulta Light Sunscreen Fluid SPF 60 ($30, ulta.com).
An over-the-counter retinol: You’re probably thinking, “Why do I need retinol if I don’t have any wrinkles?” News flash: Collagen can start to break down as early as your mid-20s. "After the age of 20, 1 percent less collagen is produced in the dermis each year," says Dr. Russak. Incorporating an over-the-counter retinol like Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Night Moisturizer (ulta.com) at night can help stave off the signs of aging. Retinoids not only stimulate collagen production, but they also help even out skin tone. Make sure to apply the product right up to the lower lash line (but skip lids altogether).
An acne-fighting treatment: If you’re dealing with breakouts, try a cleanser or spot treatment that has a boost of salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. These active ingredients will help get rid of acne-causing bacteria and calm an oily, acne-prone complexion. Try Aveeno Clear Complexion Foaming Cleanser ($7, ulta.com).
A SPF moisturizer: The foundation of any good skin-care routine is SPF. “Sunscreens are your first line of defense against UV damage,” Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mt. Sinai Hospital in NYC, tells SELF. “They prevent UV light from penetrating skin and minimize free radical damage, which can cause premature aging.” And we know that UV rays are the culprit behind 80 percent of the visible signs of aging. Wearing SPF 30+ daily is also crucial to preventing skin cancer. We like La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ulta Light Sunscreen Fluid SPF 60 ($30, ulta.com).
An over-the-counter retinol: You’re probably thinking, “Why do I need retinol if I don’t have any wrinkles?” News flash: Collagen can start to break down as early as your mid-20s. "After the age of 20, 1 percent less collagen is produced in the dermis each year," says Dr. Russak. Incorporating an over-the-counter retinol like Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Night Moisturizer (ulta.com) at night can help stave off the signs of aging. Retinoids not only stimulate collagen production, but they also help even out skin tone. Make sure to apply the product right up to the lower lash line (but skip lids altogether).
skincare-every-age_30s
Thirty is typically the age when women begin to think about antiaging products. “The natural aging process usually begins in the late 20s/early 30s,” says Amy Perlmutter, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist at the New York Dermatology Group. “The production of collagen starts to decline, leading to thinner skin. There is also diminished functioning of the sweat and oil glands, so our skin becomes drier.” In addition to the daily SPF, consider adding the following to your skin-care routine.
An exfoliating AHA: When you hit your 30s, there are a lot of things going on underneath the surface that you can't see. “Deep within skin’s layers, the dermis loses support and skin becomes less bouncy,” says Dr. Russak. “On the epidermis, the outermost surface layers, cellular renewal slows and discoloration and dullness appear.” To combat these visible changes, you can add an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) product into your regimen two or three times a week. “An alpha hydroxy acid helps prevent the buildup of dead skin cells, minimize pores, and even out skin texture and tone,” says Perlmutter.
A cleanser or peel with salicylic or lactic acid will help brighten uneven texture and clear up breakouts (because acne isn’t just for teenagers). Hormonal flare-ups and cystic, stress-related pimples can be the norm for thirtysomethings, too. Try L’Oréal Revitalift Bright Reveal Peel Pads (ulta.com), which are saturated with glycolic acid.
An antioxidant serum: Antioxidants are a key addition to your beauty routine once you hit age 30. “Antioxidants act like fire extinguishers,” says Dr. Zeichner. “They put out any fires caused by UV rays because we’re not perfect at applying and reapplying sunscreen.” Serums with vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid can help repair the skin in the daytime. Just apply a product like Skinceuticals CE Ferulic (skinceuticals.com) or Dermadoctor Kakadu C Serum (sephora.com) before layering on your sunscreen every day.
A prescription retinol: Consider seeing your dermatologist for a prescription retinol 0.25 percent to use at night. And make sure to apply all your treatments down to your neck and décolletage (two places that can show signs of aging early).
An exfoliating AHA: When you hit your 30s, there are a lot of things going on underneath the surface that you can't see. “Deep within skin’s layers, the dermis loses support and skin becomes less bouncy,” says Dr. Russak. “On the epidermis, the outermost surface layers, cellular renewal slows and discoloration and dullness appear.” To combat these visible changes, you can add an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) product into your regimen two or three times a week. “An alpha hydroxy acid helps prevent the buildup of dead skin cells, minimize pores, and even out skin texture and tone,” says Perlmutter.
A cleanser or peel with salicylic or lactic acid will help brighten uneven texture and clear up breakouts (because acne isn’t just for teenagers). Hormonal flare-ups and cystic, stress-related pimples can be the norm for thirtysomethings, too. Try L’Oréal Revitalift Bright Reveal Peel Pads (ulta.com), which are saturated with glycolic acid.
An antioxidant serum: Antioxidants are a key addition to your beauty routine once you hit age 30. “Antioxidants act like fire extinguishers,” says Dr. Zeichner. “They put out any fires caused by UV rays because we’re not perfect at applying and reapplying sunscreen.” Serums with vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid can help repair the skin in the daytime. Just apply a product like Skinceuticals CE Ferulic (skinceuticals.com) or Dermadoctor Kakadu C Serum (sephora.com) before layering on your sunscreen every day.
A prescription retinol: Consider seeing your dermatologist for a prescription retinol 0.25 percent to use at night. And make sure to apply all your treatments down to your neck and décolletage (two places that can show signs of aging early).
skincare-every-age_40s
Most women enter the perimenopause phase in their 40s (that's the phase right before menopause begins). This means the body’s hormonal makeup is in flux, which can also have an effect on the skin. “The collagen and elastin fibers break, thicken, stiffen, clump together, and lose their elasticity. This results in wrinkles and aging lines,” says Dr. Russak. While you still need to use antioxidants and SPF in the morning, try rotating the following treatments into your routine as well.
A peptide serum: Peptides are the building blocks of the skin, and they send messages to your cells in order to counteract aging. "Peptides tell your skin to do a specific job like to stimulate collagen,” says Dr. Zeichner. By vigilantly applying a peptide serum daily, you can help combat expression lines over time (these can come from decades of smiling and laughing). Try Mario Bedescu Peptide Renewal Serum (ulta.com) or Algenist Power Advanced Wrinkle Figther Serum (algenist.com).
An eye cream: In your 40s, Dr. Russak suggests adding an eye cream (if you haven’t already). The eyes are generally the first place to show signs of aging because the skin is super delicate in that area. Look for an emollient formula that has antioxidants or retinol to see the best results. Try dabbing on RoC Retinol Correxion Eye Cream ($23, drugstore.com) right after your nightly moisturizer.
A stronger retinol: This is the time to up your retinol prescription to 0.5 or 1 percent, but make sure to talk to your dermatologist before increasing your nightly dosage of retinoid
A peptide serum: Peptides are the building blocks of the skin, and they send messages to your cells in order to counteract aging. "Peptides tell your skin to do a specific job like to stimulate collagen,” says Dr. Zeichner. By vigilantly applying a peptide serum daily, you can help combat expression lines over time (these can come from decades of smiling and laughing). Try Mario Bedescu Peptide Renewal Serum (ulta.com) or Algenist Power Advanced Wrinkle Figther Serum (algenist.com).
An eye cream: In your 40s, Dr. Russak suggests adding an eye cream (if you haven’t already). The eyes are generally the first place to show signs of aging because the skin is super delicate in that area. Look for an emollient formula that has antioxidants or retinol to see the best results. Try dabbing on RoC Retinol Correxion Eye Cream ($23, drugstore.com) right after your nightly moisturizer.
A stronger retinol: This is the time to up your retinol prescription to 0.5 or 1 percent, but make sure to talk to your dermatologist before increasing your nightly dosage of retinoid
skincare-every-age_50
By 50, there is a drastic drop in hormones due to menopause, and the natural signs of aging are clear (hey, a few wrinkles are a sign of a life well lived!). “As hormone levels drop, collagen production slows drastically,” says Dr. Russak. “Moisturize well and hydrate continually to help skin retain its elasticity, bounce, and radiance.” At this point, it's also time to back off some of the harsher treatments like retinol and focus on putting moisture back into the skin—and don't forget to use SPF every day.
A gentle cleanser: “The skin's elasticity dramatically declines in the 50s, and it also becomes a lot drier,” says Dr. Perlmutter. Look for a cream or oil cleanser that will remove dirt without stripping skin of moisture. Try Jason Naturals Gentle basics Facial Cleanser (target.com).
A hyaluronic acid serum: Look for a product that is high in hyaluronic acid to give the skin more moisture, like Pestle & Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum (pestleandmortar.com). “Hyaluronic acid is a naturally derived ingredient that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It is very light, thin, and usually is not sticky,” says Dr. Russak.
A ceramide moisturizer: “The epidermis loses lipids (fatty substances) that keep skin moisturized, further contributing to the wrinkle problem,” says Dr. Russak. “Skin becomes thinner as we age—almost transparent in some cases—and loses a lot of the underlying fat layer that keeps young skin smooth and supple.” Ceramides like the ones in the Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 cream (skinceuticals.com) can help lock in moisture and give the skin a plump appearance. Dr. Russak also recommends decreasing the strength of your retinol prescription once you hit 50, since retinoids can dry out the skin.
A gentle cleanser: “The skin's elasticity dramatically declines in the 50s, and it also becomes a lot drier,” says Dr. Perlmutter. Look for a cream or oil cleanser that will remove dirt without stripping skin of moisture. Try Jason Naturals Gentle basics Facial Cleanser (target.com).
A hyaluronic acid serum: Look for a product that is high in hyaluronic acid to give the skin more moisture, like Pestle & Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum (pestleandmortar.com). “Hyaluronic acid is a naturally derived ingredient that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It is very light, thin, and usually is not sticky,” says Dr. Russak.
A ceramide moisturizer: “The epidermis loses lipids (fatty substances) that keep skin moisturized, further contributing to the wrinkle problem,” says Dr. Russak. “Skin becomes thinner as we age—almost transparent in some cases—and loses a lot of the underlying fat layer that keeps young skin smooth and supple.” Ceramides like the ones in the Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 cream (skinceuticals.com) can help lock in moisture and give the skin a plump appearance. Dr. Russak also recommends decreasing the strength of your retinol prescription once you hit 50, since retinoids can dry out the skin.
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