By Celia Ellenberg, VOGUE
Arriving backstage at the 16th-century cloister on Paris’ left bank for Rodarte’s
Spring show this morning was slightly disorienting for two reasons: the
first had to do with the piles of fresh baby’s breath that hairstylist
Odile Gilbert’s team was snipping and pinning—into barrettes, wired
wreaths, and satin ribbons in shades of pink, black and white—which made
the room feel more like a flower shop than a runway prep zone. The
second was that we were nearly 3,600 miles away from the 22nd street
Chelsea gallery where sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy
usually show their collections. “We wanted to do something magical,”
Gilbert said of the naturalistic hair accessories that were inspired by
the venue’s lush courtyard and perfected by L.A.-based floral designer
Joseph Free, who flew in for the occasion.
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And
it was magical. All 50 models had a different hair design that was used
to embellish defused lengths texturized with Bumble and bumble’s Surf Foam Spray Blow Dry,
and to accentuate the specific shade and cut of the exquisite tulle,
lace, chiffon and leather dresses and separates on view. Bird of
Paradise petals pinned into free-flowing tendrils complimented a floral
bouquet held like a minaudière; flower-dotted, metallic, bow-shaped
clips aligned with belts and arm cuffs molded into the same shape. The
baby’s breath, which added another level of ethereal to a haute couture
week debut that was blessed with the day’s first rays of sunshine
following hours of cold rain, reappeared as both boa and
clutched-accessory on the runway. “People say romantic is boring,”
Gilbert said as she affixed a few additional strands of flowers into
model Kiki Willems copper-colored hair. “But every girl in the world
wants to look like this. We need romance more now than ever.”