Plus, products that will disguise the damage.
When
gel manicures and shellac arrived on the scene, they were total
game-changers. The cured polishes make it so easy to go about life
without worrying about chipped tips. The thick coat of lacquer also
keeps fragile nails from breaking, allowing nails to grow to unexpected
lengths. But on the flipside, gel can leave your natural nails brittle
and breaking, especially if they're removed the wrong way.
Dermatologists also have concerns about the use of UV lights to harden the polishes—but no research has yet been done on long-term exposure to UV light through gel manicures.
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“Having
damage from gel is a reality, just like a bad haircut or color,” says
Essie celebrity manicurist Michelle Saunders. “The good news is that
[nails] replenish and grow (just like hair) no matter what you do to
them.” So after a couple of back-to-back gel appointments, treat your
nails to rehab. We've compiled a list of the most common gel manicure
issues—and the simple solutions—ahead.
Post-Gel Problem #1: There are white spots or lines on your natural nail, and/or the nail plate feels uneven.
Post-gel damage is typically caused by the removal process.
Using the wrong tools and technique can leave tips with microtrauma.
Here's the right way: First, you should break the seal of the gel with a
nail file before applying a cotton ball soaked in pure acetone to the
nails. Then, secure the cotton in place with foil. After 10 minutes (or
more), the gel should flake off with the help of a nail file. Avoid
scraping with a metal cuticle pusher for this step. The acetone soak
softens the nail plate and even gentle scraping can push cells creating
divots or white spots.
It
takes about three to six months for nails to grow out completely,
erasing these white spots. Give your nails a break from gel to allow the
nail plate time to recover. You can smooth and harden the nail during
the process with a base coat that has a gelatin matrix. For her patients
who are prone to weak nails, dermatologist Melanie Palm, M.D.
prescribes Genadur, a lacquer that strengthens nails with field
horsetail.
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Post-Gel Problem #2: Your nails are constantly breaking once the gels come off.
“Your
nails have become ‘used’ to that protective coating of gel (which keeps
nails from breaking), so your everyday lifestyle could cause breakage,”
says Saunders. If your nails are snapping at every little tap and
touch, consider cutting them down to a short, manageable length.
Post-Gel Problem #3: Your nails are peeling and flaking away.
Nails
are made up of dead skin, particularly a protein called keratin (which
is the same thing that makes up hair). “[Nails] can become dry and
brittle (just like hair after too much color or styling),” says
Saunders. According to Palm, nails also lose moisture faster than the
rest of the skin. Rehydrate them by using cuticle oil like Essie Apricot
Cuticle Oil ($9, amazon.com) and hand cream like C.O. Bigelow Chapped Hands Remedy ($14, bigelowchemists.com),
especially after washing your hands. “[Avoid] extremes of very dry or
very hydrated,” says Palm. If the nail is super dry it can become
brittle, and if the nail is too hydrated it can become soft—both
situations make nails more prone to damage. “Do a cream at night to keep
hands moisturized, putting cotton gloves over it to enhance
penetration,” says Palm. Flaky nails can also be a sign that you made
another rookie mistake: peeling off the gel. “Every time you peel the
gel off without breaking the bond, then a layer (or more) of your nail
plate is removed.”
Shop some of our favorite base coats to disguise the damage and strengthen your nails post-gel ahead.
Nails Inc. Back To Life Recovery Treatment
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OPI Gel Break Trio Pack
Essie Treat, Love & Color Nail Polish
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CND RescueRXx Daily Keratin Treatment
Butter London Horse Power Nail Rescue Base Coat
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Sally Hansen Moisture Rehab Overnight Nail Serum
