How To Help Dark Circles, Under-Eye Puffiness, And Lines

One powerful treatment and gentle pat at a time.

By Melissa Goldstein, Martha Stewart

More than any other feature, our eyes are a road map of our experiences, reflecting years of laughing, smiling, and squinting at screens. The reason lies in basic physiology: The skin surrounding them is roughly three times thinner than that on the rest of the face. With every movement it stretches like elastic, but it doesn’t bounce back as resiliently. And because it lacks padding, dark shadows appear more pronounced, and water retention from salt, alcohol, and allergies can lead to inflated bags underneath.

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But these fragile areas also have a skin-care advantage, says Manhattan dermatologist Shereene Idriss: “They absorb topical treatments more readily.” You can see some improvement in as little as two weeks, says Tucson, Arizona, dermatologist Jody Comstock.

In a doctor’s office, you can get results even faster. Botox stops muscle contractions for up to four months (from $300 per area). Lasers like Fraxel target fine lines and fade pigmentation; ultrasound therapies like Ultherapy boost collagen production, with results that last up to two years (both start at $700 per session). And hyaluronic-acid fillers like Restylane and Juvéderm instantly replenish volume (from $500 per syringe, two to three times a year).

In Focus

For optimal results, commit to using a targeted treatment every day, then protect your eyes with sunscreen and oversize shades. For less pressure (in other words, less tugging), apply eye cream with a non‑dominant digit, such as your ring finger. Tap it along the orbital and brow bones, and steer clear of the lid to avoid irritation and stinging.

Lighten Shadows

Photography by: Courtesy of Mario Badescu

Discoloration has several underlying causes—and cures. Brown-tinged circles are typically vascular and caused by sun damage, eye rubbing, or genetics. To prevent blood-vessel expansion, apply a cold compress in the a.m., and use a cream with capillaryconstricting vitamin K. Bluish circles happen when the loss of subcutaneous fat pushes blood vessels flush against skin. Ceramides and vitamin C help rebuild collagen (i.e., padding).

TRY: Naturopathica Vitamin K Brightening Eye Serum, naturopathica.com. Mario Badescu Ceramide Herbal Eye Cream, mariobadescu.com.

Soften Fine Lines

Photography by: Peter Ardito

To conquer crow’s-feet, it’s retinol for the win. This proven crease-smoother revs up cell turnover to generate fresh collagen and elastin. Your go-to facial formula is fine to use around the eyes, but to stay on the safe side, consider a milder, buffered version specifically for this area—formulated so as not to aggravate or cause redness.

TRY: Clark’s Botanicals Retinol Rescue Eye Serum, clarksbotanicals.com.

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Deflate Bags

Photography by: Peter Ardito

Most puffiness comes from water accumulation, says Comstock, who points to alcohol, salt, and even gluten as inflammatory agents. Deflate with a caffeine-spiked serum (keep it in the fridge for a cooling effect) and by massaging the area with a roller ball or your fingers. To prevent future swelling, sleep with your head slightly elevated, so fluid can’t accumulate.

TRY: Lancôme Énergie de Vie Illuminating & Anti-Fatigue Cooling Eye Gel, lancomeusa.com.

Diminish Dullness

Photography by: Peter Ardito

Sleepless nights and staring at a computer all day leave eyes looking gaunt and haggard. (Blink if you’ve been there.) Enlist a bit of visual trickery: Brighten skin and offset shadows with a yellowtinted cream, and look for a formula containing glycerin, which offers an immediate hit of moisture.

TRY: Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Eye Crème, olehenriksen.com.

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Plump and Hydrate

Photography by: Peter Ardito

Presoaked self-adhesive patches are like an IV drip for the under-eye areas, infusing them with a megadose of skin-quenching hyaluronic acid. The U-shaped gels “stick” in place, so you can wear a set while blow-drying or on a plane, and hit the ground rested and revived.

TRY: Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Cloud HydraGel Eye Patches, peterthomasroth.com.

One and Done

Photography by: Peter Ardito

For a treatment that tackles it all, smooth on StriVectin MultiAction R&R Eye Cream. It features skin barrier–strengthening niacin and anti-inflammatory peptides to firm, tone, and brighten in a single cool swipe. strivectin.com.

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