"Prevention is the best approach—along with treating the entire
acne-prone area rather than chasing individual pimples after they form,"
says Ava Shamban, MD, a dermatologist and founder of SKINxFIVE.
"People who have an underlying condition of acne always have papules
forming under the skin, so it's better to disrupt the cycle before it
starts."
Don't forget the 12 things you should always ask your dermatologist at your next checkup.
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"This should include an exfoliating cleanser that doesn't
dry you out and an exfoliating cream," says Toral Patel, MD, a
dermatologist at D&A Dermatology in Chicago. Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Cleanser is a fan favorite for preventing the buildup that causes whiteheads. Likewise, Touch Keratosis Pilaris Exfoliating Lotion contains 15 percent glycolic acid and 2 percent salicylic acid, which makes for a great exfoliating cream.
Look for active ingredients
How to DIY a treatment
"In general, the same ingredients can both treat and
prevent whiteheads," says Dr. Patel. "These include alpha hydroxy acids
(like glycolic or lactic), beta hydroxy acids (like salicylic acid) and
topical retinoids. All of these ingredients are effective at unplugging
the pores."
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Try a spot treatment
Many of these ingredients can be found in face washes and lotions, or
can be applied as a spot treatment like Acnomel (it contains resorcinol 2
percent, sulfur 8 percent) or Mario Badescu Drying Lotion (the ingredients include alcohol, calamine, camphor, sulfur, resorcinol, salicylic acid), says Dr. Lortscher.
"Don't overdo it—just a Q-tip to each spot will suffice," he says.
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You can find acne treatments at both drugstores and
department stores, of course, but if you're in a pinch, says Dr.
Shamban, try warm compresses to encourage drainage; a paste of ground-up
aspirin can reduce redness, says Dr. Shamban. She also likes tea tree
oil for reducing inflammation.
Know the difference between cystic acne and whiteheads
It's important to note that cystic acne is different from a
whitehead and requires a different approach. "Cystic acne is acne that
has become very inflamed and is deeper in the skin," says Dr. Patel.
"This type of acne is usually treated with oral medication, compared to
whiteheads, which often respond to topical treatments.
Head to the spa
There are other ways to stop bacteria from creating a breakout.
"Treatments such as chemical peels and microdermabrasion (which is like a
vacuum for your pores) can help draw out impurities from the pores and
keep them open," says Dr. Patel.
Light therapy is also a great way to keep pores open and
clean. The beam of light can help alleviate psoriasis and itchy skin,
along with zapping whitehead-inducing bacteria, says Nava Greenfield,
MD, a New York City-based dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group.
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Don't pop the pimple
Dermatologists overwhelmingly recommend asking a licensed aesthetician or board-certified dermatologist to pop a whitehead.
"This will likely make it last longer by pushing comedone
contents and bacteria further down pores," says Michele Farber, MD, a
dermatologist with Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City. "The biggest concern is risk of scarring if lesions get more inflamed."
