How to Figure Out Your Curl Type

By Joane Amay, Allure

We feel you. Decoding your curl type can be confusing. Several different textures can exist on one head alone, which all have to somehow look cohesive when you rock a style. Plus, there's been some debate as to whether the typing system, originally started by hairstylist Andre Walker and modified by folks in the curly community, is divisive or even too narrow. But controversy aside, many people have found that even if it isn't perfect, it can be super useful in at least being able to identify your curl pattern (or patterns) so you know where to start when it comes to hair care. It's a lot to think about, so we asked two industry texture pros to break down some of the finer points of the texture typing categories. Follow our easy tip sheet below (complete with recommendations for your hair-care stash) to help you better ID your curl type.
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Where to Start

“Your curl type is determined by the shape of the follicle that your hair grows out of from your scalp. The flatter or more oval shaped the follicle, the curlier your hair; while the more circular the cross-section, the straighter your hair. Your curl pattern is also identified by the shape that the strands of hair make, whether they kink, curve, or wind around themselves into spirals,” says hairstylist Vernon François.

Most textured gals have more than one type of pattern on their head, “so you may have a combination of, say, kinky, coily, wavy, and curly” adds François. To identify your curl shape and pattern (or patterns), “it’s best determined while your hair is sopping wet,” explains Anthony Dickey, the curl wizard behind the Hair Rules salon and brand. 1s are straight, 2s are wavy, 3s are curly, and 4s are coily.

The sub-classifications of A to C are based on the width or diameter of your wave, curl, or coil pattern. As have a wider pattern size, Bs medium, and Cs the smallest of the three. “The real beauty of identifying your hair type is that you’re better at understanding how to care for your texture so you can have more versatility,” says Dickey.

Type 2 (Wavy)

Illustration by Maria Asare-Boadi

Type 2 waves are bendable, can be fine to coarse, and have a definitive S pattern that lays closer to the head.
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2A

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2As have a fine, barely-there tousled texture that’s very easy to straighten. People with this texture have to be wary of using heavy styling products that can easily weigh their strands down, rendering them limp and lifeless. 2A waves, like Arizona Muse’s, lack volume at the root. Dickey recommends using an airy, water-based mousse, like Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam, to add a bit of oomph at the base and to make hair look fluffier and fuller.

2B

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2Bs are flatter at the crown with defined S-shaped waves starting from the midlength, like Salma Hayek's here. Strands are thicker in diameter than a 2A, and you’ll have to put in a bit of elbow grease into getting it straight. To enhance your natural surfer-babe waves, use Ouidad Wave Create Sea Spray enriched with seaweed and algae extracts for sexy texture that’s never crunchy or stiff.
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2C

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2C waves are thick, coarse, and more susceptible to frizzing. The S-bends are well-defined and begin at the roots. Lorde is the perfect example of this hair type. Use a non-lathering, sulfate-free shampoo so as not to strip essential moisture from strands, like Briogeo Be Gentle, Be Kind Avocado + Quinoa Co-Wash.

Dickey also recommends layering a leave-in conditioner under a mousse to lock in your hair's natural wave pattern while adding hydration. We like Suave Avocado & Olive Oil Leave-In Conditioner and Herbal Essences Bio:Renew Curl Defining Mousse.

Type 3 (Curly)

Illustration by Maria Asare-Boadi

Type 3 curly hair can range from loose, buoyant loops to tight, springy corkscrews which have some sheen but are prone to frizz.
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3A

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3A strands, like Zendaya’s pictured here, tend to be shiny with large, loose curls that are about the size of a piece of sidewalk chalk. Scrunch It’s a 10 Miracle Defrizzing Curl Cream into your dry hair to help emphasize the curl texture. But keep your hands (or brush or comb, for that matter) from touching your curls afterward, or you run the risk of having a halo full of frizz. To maintain those juicy springs, simply spritz your hair with a curl refresher, like Carol Daughter’s Hair Milk Nourishing & Conditioning Refresher Spray, when it needs a boost.

3B

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3Bs have coarse, springy ringlets with a circumference similar to a Sharpie marker. This hair texture can get dry, so look for styling gels that have humectants in them to attract moisture to strands. Try Mielle Organics Honey & Ginger Styling Gel. “Apply when [your hair is] wet,” advises Dickey, “so you’ll get definition without frizz.”
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3C

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3C curls are tight corkscrews that range in circumference from a straw to a pencil. Yara Shahidi is a great example for 3Cs. Strands are densely packed together, giving way to lots of natural volume. Frizziness can be an issue with this type, so use a sulfate-free, creamy cleanser, like Oyin Handmade Ginger Mint Co-Wash, so as not to dry out your hair.

Dickey also favors layering a mousse, such as Cantu Wave Whip Curling Mousse, over a styling cream (like Marc Anthony True Professional Coconut Oil & Shea Butter Curl Cream) when the hair is sopping wet to allow curls to clump together and dry faster. “Your co-wash reveals your curl pattern, while your styling product captures [it],” explains Dickey.

Type 4 (Coily)

Illustration by Maria Asare-Boadi

Coily hair, commonly referred to as Afro-textured or kinky hair, is naturally very dry and spongy in texture and can be soft and fine or coarse and wiry. Strands form very tight, small curls of zig-zags right from the scalp and are prone to major shrinkage.
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4A

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4As have dense springy, S-patterned coils that are the circumference of a crochet needle. Look to Skai Jackson if you have this texture type. If you're a fan of wash and gos, styling should be done more frequently to keep this coily texture popping with soft, pliable strands. A curling cream with a leave-in moisturizer is a must for adding more moisture to daily wash-and-go styling. Hair Rules Kinky Curling Cream and Hair Rules Nourishment Leave In Moisturizer are his go-to cocktail combo.

4B

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4B strands are densely packed and can bend in sharp angles like the letter Z. “Issa Rae has beautiful coily 4B hair. I love that it can be shaped in many different ways,” says François. “My PureFro Moisture Spray is all that you need to keep coils and kinks refreshed and hydrated between shampooing, or as a style quick-pick-me-up during the day.” Dickey prefers styling creams, like Crème of Nature Coconut Milk Curl Hydrating Curling Cream, for this hair type because they are thicker and are great for palm-rolling or shingling, two type of product distribution methods that stretch out coils and clump them for greater texture definition and elongation.
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4C

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4C hair is similar to 4B textures, but the tightly coiled strands are more fragile and have a very tight zig-zag pattern that is sometimes indiscernible to the eye. This hair type experiences the greatest amount of shrinkage — about 75 percent or more — than the other textures. If you are a 4C, take your style cues from Lupita Nyong’o. “Her hair is simply stunning. We’ve created so many show-stopping moments together. I love that her texture is so versatile and we always have fun creating and exploring new looks,” says François, her stylist.

Since shrinkage and dryness are major concerns for these tightly-coiled folks, use a liberal amount of leave-in moisturizer, such as Shea Moisture Red Palm Oil & Cocoa Butter Curl Stretch Pudding to max the length of those strands. Castor oil is also a great hydrator and sealant for this very dry texture. Try Madame C.J. Walker Beauty Culture Scent & Shine Jamaican Black Castor Oil.

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