By Kaleigh Fasanella, Glamour
If you were taking Makeup 101, a hypothetical-but-also-realistic course someone would take in cosmetology school, one of the first things you'd likely learn is that prepping the skin is imperative before applying makeup. Ever try putting foundation or concealer on skin that's dry, peeling, or simply devoid of moisture? If you have, you understand why — it literally doesn't sit well. It's super helpful to have a makeup game plan for when your epidermis is in a state of distress.
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Good thing we've got you covered. We turned to the pros — aka two trusted makeup artists and a board-certified dermatologist — for their best tips on achieving flawless makeup even when your skin is a bit worse for wear. (No surprise here — it always starts with the skin.) Ahead, find out how to perfect your face beat despite suffering Sahara Desert-like symptoms.
Step 1: Smooth things out.
According to New York City-based dermatologist, Shari Marchbein, flaking skin and facial dryness can happen for a variety of reasons, including but not limited to rashes due to allergic reactions, skin conditions such as psoriasis and eczema, extreme temperatures, overusing harsh products like retinoids and other acne medications, and exfoliating too often.
In any situation, Marchbein recommends paring down your skin-care routine and using a very mild scrub to remove dead or peeling skin (she favors St. Ives Gentle Smoothing Oatmeal Scrub). "To prep the skin directly before applying makeup, a hydrating moisturising gel can help smooth the skin and allow for more even makeup application by acting as a humectant, attracting water and moisture to the top layer of the skin," she explains, adding that her two favorites are Neutrogena's Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Face Moisturiser Gel-Cream and Simple's Simple Water Boost Hydrating Booster. (If your skin is on the drier side, you can always swap out a gel in lieu of a richer moisturiser, like Eau Thermale Avène's Tolerance Extreme Cream, which is packed full of skin-softening agents like shea butter and thermal spring water.)
If time allows, makeup artist Elisa Flowers says she loves doing a quick mask session to resurface the skin. "Try using GlamGlow's Youthmud Tinglexfoliate Treatment for 10 minutes," she suggests. "This invigorating, tingling mud mask, tightens and smooths away dead skin cells, leaving behind a radiant complexion," she adds. Another one of Flowers's top tips is to use a gentle lip scrub (we're partial to Bite Beauty's Agave Sugar Scrub) to smooth away buildup and simultaneously prime and soften the lips.
Pat your dry, clean skin with the sticky side of Scotch tape, [as] the adhesive in the tape is strong enough to pull off all the loose bits but gentle enough to not harm your skin
If you're pressed for time, however, makeup artist Robin Black has a genius hack that tackles stubborn dry spots in a pinch. "This simple trick works to instantly remove dry skin on the face and lips," she says matter-of-factly. "Pat your dry, clean skin with the sticky side of Scotch tape, [as] the adhesive in the tape is strong enough to pull off all the loose bits but gentle enough to not harm your skin," she explains. Once you've removed the flakes, Black suggests using a hydrating serum or face oil, followed by a moisturiser to lock everything in.
Step 2: Layer up for good measure.
Once your skin is feeling fresh and nourished again, it's time to prime the skin, which you can do with either a traditional primer or a face oil and/or cream that's that caters to dry skin. (This will allow your makeup to glide on more seamlessly and retain its glow). Renowned makeup artist Tom Pecheux is famous for using oil on his clients' skin, as well as adding extra to any drier areas, to make their skin look ultra-luminous. Rodin Olio Lusso is one of his favorites.
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If you're a primer person, Flowers recommends YSL's Touche Éclat Blur Primer, which she says gives the skin a soft glow and also blurs surface issues like uneven texture and large pores.
Step 3: Pick your base of choice.
Whether you reach for a full-coverage foundation, tinted moisturiser or concealer will depend solely on the finish you feel works best for you and your skin type.
Whatever base you choose, however, it should be one that adds moisture to the skin rather than depleting it, putting you back at square one. In other words, it's a good idea to forgo powder products on days when your skin is dry or you're experiencing flaking (a tip that comes courtesy of bicoastal makeup artist Ingeborg). "I love RMS Un Cover-Up because it's creamy, soothing, and feels weightless," she says, adding that she also adores concealers from Nars, namely its famous Radiant Creamy Concealer.
If a classic foundation is more your jam, Flowers recommends Chanel's Vitalumiere Moisture Rich Radiance Sunscreen Fluid Makeup, as she says it has a lightweight medium coverage and imparts a beautiful dewy finish. "Apply with a damp Beautyblender or with a buffing brush for a perfect finish," she advises.
Covet a little extra glow? Ingeborg swears by Tom Ford's Shade and Illuminate, a contour-highlight duo that she says is both sheer and balmy and never accentuates flakes.
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Step 4: Seal it all in with a spritz.
If you're someone who likes to finish your makeup with a setting product, Flowers recommends a spray formulation rather than a powder when your skin is parched. "The last step is to spritz skin with a hydrating mist like Glam Glow's Glowsetter Makeup Setting Spray, which will freshen makeup and give a gorgeous finish," she explains, adding that it also smells amazing and sets makeup for the whole day. What more could you want?
All this to say: It is possible for your makeup to look great even when your skin is feeling anything but. With these simple steps, you can still feel refreshed, glowing, and ready to take on the day (or take a plethora of shameless selfies — whatever floats your boat.)
See more at: Glamour
