How To Build A Hair Care Routine

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By Dorian Smith-Garcia, MindBodyGreen

On the quest for the Holy Grail of hair care routines, it’s easy to find yourself constantly chasing after recommendations or methods promoted by your favorite influencers. And it’s understandable, who wouldn’t want to copy tactics hyped by someone whose hair always looks social media-ready? But the truth is, your hair care routine needs to be catered to more factors than simply mimicking shiny strands or juicy coils touted on Instagram or TikTok. Whether you have fine, thin hair or thick coily curls, there’s a routine that will work for you. You just need to put some thought into your hair care strategy.

What to think about before starting to build your routine

Most people think that a good hair care routine solely focuses on keeping your hair clean. And for sure, that’s important. But there’s a little bit of biology and chemistry that needs to be added to the equation. Think about the current state of your hair and ask yourself a few questions:

• What are my current hair concerns?

• Am I trying to correct damage or chronic dryness?

• What is my hair type?

• What is my hair’s porosity level?

• Do I want to stretch a style more than a day or two, or do I like a fresh ‘do every day?

• Do I alter my hair in anyway, be it physical or chemical manipulation?

The routine for someone with chemically processed hair—which includes color-treated, relaxed, and even damaged hair—might be slightly different than someone with virgin hair (hair that’s never been altered by chemicals). Likewise, a person with type 1 straight hair might use different products than someone with type 3 or 4 hair which includes curly and coily heads.

For example, not all hair types can benefit from daily washing. People with curly hair might not need to wash every day—or even every week. Yet, there’s a caveat here. If you struggle with product build-up either on your hair or scalp, you might want to increase your wash frequency. Allison Teasdale, a hair care expert and co-founder of Unwrapped Life notes that “I cleanse my hair and scalp about every two to three days with a shampoo bar depending on what my hair needs, either some extra cleansing power to remove styling products or added moisture.”

This is all to say: There is so much nuance that goes into hair care, so you should be open and willing to experiment with subtle routine differences in your journey to find what works for you.

The porosity caveat

A lesser-known factor that can throw a wrench in your hair care strategy is porosity. While most people think of dryness as a problem that’s a concern only for curly hair types, porosity tosses that myth out the window. Hair porosity references the state of your hair shaft and its ability to retain moisture.

There are three possible porosity levels—low, normal, and high. Low porosity means your hair cuticles are tightly aligned and may prevent moisture from fully penetrating the hair shaft. Medium porosity hair has a cuticle layer with a looser alignment, meaning that the right amount of moisture can penetrate the hair shaft. This porosity level is often considered the most ideal because it requires less maintenance. And high porosity means that your hair cuticles are always open—allowing too much moisture to enter the hair shaft.

In particular, low and high porosity hair requires more thought when picking products that will optimize moisture retention in your hair care routine. And high porosity hair is often linked with damage caused by either chemical processing, the environment, or human error. Additionally, think about your time. Not everyone wants a wash day that takes the entire morning and afternoon to complete. Meanwhile, some people might prefer multitasking hair products that can replace multiple individual solutions.

Do you need a “daily” hair care routine?

Traditional hair advice would have you believe that everyone should wash and shampoo their hair daily. But as we mentioned earlier, this isn’t the best advice for everyone. However, that doesn’t mean that some form of hair care isn’t encouraged every day.

Again, individual steps that you incorporate into your routine should be dependent upon your hair type, any specific hair concerns you’re trying to address, and your available time commitment. But at a minimum, even simple preventative steps can be part of anyone’s daily routine.

For example, putting your hair into a ponytail or high bun before bed can ensure that you minimize tangles—and speed up your morning routine. “I also recommend using a microfiber towel and a satin pillowcase regularly. Both of these items will pull the hair far less than their counterparts which are often made of coarser fabrics," notes Gina Rivera, a hair artist creator of Phenix Salon Suites and By Gina.

Or, engaging in a daily detangling session, including finger detangling, can help to reduce breakage and help you save every inch if length retention is one of your long-term hair goals. Just remember to work from tip to root to avoid encouraging breakage.

A guide to a basic hair care routine

While individual product selections are going to vary based on your hair type, porosity level, and specific concerns, there are a few key steps that should be in everyone’s go-to hair care routine. Also, keep in mind that some people may opt to include additional steps to target specific hair issues like dryness or damaged hair.

Inside out support

Considering how many products are aimed at taming, repairing, and boosting your hair once it’s on your head, many people forget that a key step to eliminating bad hair days is about what you eat and drink. Skimping on water, or having a daily diet that’s more junk food than healthy eats is a great way to end up with hair that’s seen better days.

Hair is made of keratin, a protein. So, be sure to up your protein intake as well as get the daily recommended amounts of water. If you suspect your diet could use a healthy hair upgrade, there are plenty of healthy foods that are rich in nutrients that boost natural keratin production at the root. A few of our favorites:

• Eggs contain several amino acids needed for keratin production.

• Berries are high in antioxidants that support follicle health.

• Lean and vegetable proteins offer the building blocks for keratin.

• Citrus fruits are high in vitamin C, which helps scalp health.

• Veggies like sweet potatoes, broccoli, and spinach contain B vitamins, like biotin, which are used in keratin synthesis.

And while diet is generally the first line of defense, supplements can also be beneficial. Collagen supplements, for example, have been shown to benefit hair by supporting follicle health and regeneration, providing essential compounds for hair growth, and more. (Here are 16 of our favorites, by the way.)


Read More: How to Lift Your Hair's Roots After Sleeping on a Style

Cleansing

The cleansing step can be a contentious one if you’re not familiar with the hair world. Some—who have oily roots, are prone to buildup, or due to lifestyle factors like daily workouts—can get away with a daily rinse. Of course, shampoos are a natural option to help banish dirt and grime, but traditional versions are often full of sulfates and other harsh ingredients which can encourage product buildup or strip your hair and scalp of critical moisture. We recommend sticking with a sulfate-free shampoo, as they are better for your hair and scalp health longterm.

Many people with wavy or curly hair have opted to swap classic shampoos for cleansers which are usually free from common synthetic additives like phthalates, sulfates, and irritants like fragrance or synthetic color. And because of the traditionally harsh stripping power of shampoo, some people with curly hair prefer to “co-wash” or cleanse their hair and scalp with a conditioner.

Brittany Johnson, a licensed hairstylist, and senior content manager for Mayvenn Hair notes that “For wavy and curly textures, try replacing your normal shampoo schedule with a few instances of co-washing. Your hair will be less prone to frizz and its natural oils will have a chance to work their way through and truly condition your strands.”

However, this might not be effective for everyone as co-washing isn’t always a thorough solution if you have serious product build-up. Some people opt for pre-poo (or before shampooing) treatments such as apple cider vinegar (ACV) rinses to aid in agitating dirt before co-washing.

Additionally, many hair care experts recommend folding in a clarifying shampoo. These are extra-strength formulas that remove all buildup from the scalp and strand, and can act as a "reset." While any hair type can benefit from a refresh, do not overuse clarifying shampoos as they can be too stripping for most people.

Whether you use a shampoo, a cleanser, or co-wash with a conditioner, you’ll need to determine how frequently you need to wash your hair. Product minimalists who aren’t always reaching for holding sprays, pomades, or even gels may be able to go longer between cleansing days. Similarly, someone who struggles with a dry scalp might not want to wash their hair every day.

Conditioning

Regardless of how you cleanse your hair, experts agree that conditioning is a critical step that everyone—no matter their hair type—should do. But the type of conditioner you select is going to depend on your hair concerns. For example, people with very dry hair should focus on conditioners that contain humectants which can aid in deeper moisture penetration into the hair shaft and improve retention. Someone who’s struggling with damaged hair might prefer a repairing conditioner that contains ingredients like silk proteins.

And don’t forget about leave-in conditioners. Robert Siebert, the VP of education for the hair care brand Aloxxi reminds us that “for curly & frizzy hair, moisture is key! Leave-in conditioners that restore moisture and shine would be a go-to.”

Detangling

Although we’ve listed detangling further down in our “must-have” list of hair care routine components, note that not everyone will detangle their hair the same way. Specifically, people with wavy, curly, and coily hair are usually encouraged to detangle their hair when it’s wet to minimize breakage. But, these hair types will often make detangling the first step in their hair care routine after spritzing it with water, a detangler, or a conditioner and water mix.

Regardless of your hair type, detangling should be performed by starting at your ends and working your way up to the root. Attempting the opposite direction can create stubborn tangles which can lead to breakage. Depending on your hair type and preference, you can opt for a brush, a comb, or even use your fingers.

If you choose to use a comb, look for a wide-tooth comb and ideally one that is seamless to minimize the risk of breakage. And if you prefer brushes, look for a dedicated detangling brush with wider set bristles.

Moisturizing

Every step in your hair care routine is important, but moisturizing will impact everything from ease of maintenance to the results of your hairstyling efforts. Part of picking the right moisturizer is understanding your hair type and porosity.

As we mentioned earlier, people with low and high porosity will find that it’s more of a challenge to find the right moisture balance as their hair is more likely to suffer moisture loss. So, they’ll want to look for moisturizers that feature hydrating ingredients like humectants. Alternatively, you can also opt for oils like jojoba or butters like shea. However, depending on your hair type, oils and butters may need to be used sparingly or not at all to prevent weighing down your hair.

Drier hair types like wavy, curly, and coily hair should moisturize daily as the natural oils created by your scalp don’t always travel completely down your hair shaft. Alternatively, someone with straighter hair might be able to go a day without moisturizing.

Styling

Even if you’re not the type who does much with their hair, that still means that at a minimum you’re brushing or combing to remove tangles and working to make your hair look presentable. For some, styling might be more elaborate and require overnight sets or the need for hot tools.

Whichever way works best for you, there are a few things to keep in mind. If you’re trying to prep a style overnight such as on braids, twists, or even a bun, you’re going to need a setting product. Pretty much everyone should avoid products that contain alcohol. But if you have dry hair, you’ll want to stay away from anything that contains alcohol because it’s a drying agent which can make your hair even worse. Plus holding creams and gels with alcohol can also encourage flaking which can be unsightly and give the wrong impression if you have dark hair.

And if you’re the type who relies on heat styling, Genevieve Barnoski of AURA Personalized Hair Care recommends that you “ease up on the heat styling and use a heat protectant when you do use heat tools. It’s best to only heat style only once or twice a week to avoid damage and breakage.”

Extras to include less frequently

For some people, including occasional hair care steps can aid in boosting the look of their hair. However, sometimes these extra steps are best used with a “less is more” mentality. For example, protein treatments shouldn’t be used daily as protein buildup can have the opposite intended effect and encourage product buildup and dryness.

But extra steps you might consider incorporating include:

• Hair masks: These can be creams or oils but are usually intended to sit on your hair for an extended period immediately after shampooing or cleansing. For optimal results, apply a heating cap or tie a trash bag around your hair to use the heat from your head to help the product better penetrate the hair shaft. Check out our favorite hair masks here.

• Rinses: Rinses are often used as pre-poo or pre-conditioner steps to help clarify, or prepare the hair to accept moisture from your preferred conditioner. Popular rinses include ACV and even tea.

• Deep conditioning: Rather than quickly slathering your conditioner through your hair and immediately rinsing it out, you’ll let it sit anywhere from five to 15 or more minutes before rinsing.

Other hair care tips we Love

Even when you understand the basics of hair care, there are always extra tips and tricks which can help to bring out the best in your tresses.

1. Mind the water temperature

As tempting as it might be to wash your hair while in a nice hot steamy shower—don’t! Himmie Lau, a hair care expert and Executive Marketing Director from Viori Shampoo Bars notes that you should “use lukewarm water to wash your hair and cool to rinse.” Using hot water can encourage your hair’s cuticles to open too much, allowing moisture to leach out of your hair shaft.

2. Don’t skip routine trims

In the quest for long hair, it’s tempting to hold on to every inch of hair on your head. But sometimes, you have to accept that it’s time to let go. Celebrity stylist and host of Cartoon Network’s “My HAIRstory!” Kim Kimble recommends that you “...keep ends trimmed every three to four months.” While regular trims don’t boost growth in terms of speeding up new hair at the roots, they do aid in preventing additional breakage like split ends which can sabotage your hair length goals.

3. Limit heat tools use

Heat tools are great, but for all the fab styles they can help you achieve, they can also seriously damage your hair. Ian Michael Black, the global artistic director for hair color at Aveda notes that you should “towel dry your hair as much as possible before grabbing that blow dryer.” Similarly, he also recommends setting “all your heat styling products to a lower heat. It may take a little longer to dry, curl or straighten, but your hair will definitely thank you!”

4. Don’t forget your scalp

Most of us focus on the strands coming out of our heads, but a healthy scalp is also key to creating effortless good hair days. Brittany Barnes of GoodBody Salon in Oakland reminds us that “Going into your tresses with your favorite shampoo and a scalp massaging brush every two weeks will rebalance your hair and give it the deep clean it deserves. To show your scalp some real TLC, try using a scalp cleansing treatment specifically formulated to refresh your roots.”

5. Reconsider your head gear

Most of us only think about what materials come into contact with our hair when it’s time to go to bed. But Grace Eleyae of Grace Eleyae Satin Lined Caps reminds us that “cotton and wool will deplete the hair of moisture and natural oils like a sponge. So that wool beanie you're wearing will dry your hair out leaving you with hat-head or worse. It's important to protect your hair day and night with satin lined products”

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