7 Reasons Your Skin Looks Dull — and How to Get a Glowing Complexion

By Lexi Novak, Allure

"I can’t define it, but I know it when I see it.” The famous dictum was uttered by Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart upon hearing a case about radiant skin. (OK, maybe he was talking about something else, come to think of it.) Anyway, you get the point: Skin with that ineffable glow is hard to define. It seems to come from eight hours of sleep, a well-balanced chi, and inner beauty.

But good news for those of us short on any of the above and suffering from dull skin: It also comes from a few great products and some excellent advice on how to use them. We’ve identified every saboteur standing between your skin and that elusive lit-from-within-ness — and come up with a very concrete plan to unseat it. (And by “we,” we mean us and top dermatologists.)

Whether you need a simple at-home solution or more intense professional backup, here’s your guide to fixing whatever is dimming your epidermal wattage.

PROBLEM: Dead skin cells — they're everywhere.

No, you’re not seeing things — that probably is an ashy tint on your face. “We shed millions of skin cells a day, so unless you do something to actively remove the ones that don’t fall off naturally, you’re going to have a grayish look no matter your skin tone,” says Mona Gohara, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. Think of that dead-cell buildup like dust. Until you wipe it clean, it’s a dingy layer that prevents your skin from reflecting light.

SOLUTION: 

Mist some Pledge on a face wipe — kidding, please don’t do that. But you are going to need to gently exfoliate once or twice a week. “Scrubs with sugar or jojoba esters are mild enough for even sensitive skin, and grainy scrubs with pulverized nut shells are good for everyone else,” says Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. (Try First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Polish.) Peels use alpha and beta hydroxy acids to remove dead skin cells; look for formulas that contain soothing ingredients, like aloe and green tea, to minimize irritation. (We like Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial.)

PROBLEM: A fossil-fuel-based economy and eased environmental regulations.

Oh, yes, that’s also a skin-care concern. Polluted air contains a host of tiny particles, like dirt and sulfur dioxide, that create free radicals on skin. Free radicals damage collagen (hello, new wrinkles!) and stimulate pigment production over time — and when your skin’s tone and texture are uneven, it diffuses light and looks dull.

SOLUTION: 

Wash your face at night — every night. If the day’s filth lingers, it will damage your skin while you sleep. (But feel free to skip a morning wash.) “Because pollution causes inflammation and can disrupt the skin barrier, it’s important to choose a gentle creamy cleanser that helps build it back up,” says Zeichner. (Try Olay Luminous Brightening Cream Cleanser.) Studies have shown that using soap with a cleansing brush is more effective at removing nanoparticles of pollution than manual cleansing. (Facial wipes aren’t thorough enough to remove pollution, but if you’re too tired to wash your face, they’re better than nothing.) In the morning, load up on serums and lotions that contain antioxidants, like vitamin C and idebenone. “It’s like having a safety net to minimize potential damage from pollution’s free radicals,” says Zeichner.

PROBLEM: Skin issues cause stress, which causes skin issues, which...

A work deadline, an argument, or a bad night’s sleep has you a little on edge. Then you hear the most obnoxious three words ever strung together: “You look tired.” Whatever form stress takes, the result is the same. “Cortisol levels go up, your fight-or-flight response kicks in, and blood flow goes to your vital organs, not your face, leading to skin looking sallow,” says Gohara.

SOLUTION: 

Being told to relax or get more rest tends to raise cortisol levels further rather than lower them, so we’ll skip the obvious advice for now. Instead, try a quick facial massage while cleansing or applying moisturizer. “It’s a great way to stimulate blood flow, which will add radiance and plump the skin,” says Gohara. For a more lasting glow, consider a microdermabrasion session at a dermatologist’s office. It will remove dead skin cells and boost circulation.

PROBLEM: Your skin is dehydration station.

Without moisture, your skin looks dull, but the problem is deeper than you may realize. And we mean that literally. “Loss of hydration from below the skin’s surface — in the dermis and the lower levels of the epidermis — causes a decrease in thickness of the skin,” says Zeichner. “Think of a deflated balloon: It doesn’t shine as well as an inflated one.”

SOLUTION: 

Pat on a hyaluronic acid serum with damp fingers to drive moisture deep into skin. (Try SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier.) Then layer a moisturizer with powerful emollients, like cetyl alcohol or dimethicone, on top. (A good choice isOlay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Daily Moisturizer“Emollients create a thin, transparent film over the skin’s surface,” says Zoe Diana Draelos, a consulting professor of dermatology at Duke University. That film will help skin cells lie flat and reflect light better.

PROBLEM: You're not getting your daily serving of...metal?

Trace minerals are vital to forming the body’s natural antioxidants, which protect the components of healthy, radiant skin, says Draelos. But it’s difficult to get the recommended daily amounts from food alone (current farming practices are causing soil to become increasingly nutrient-bare, according to a study in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences).

SOLUTION: 

 Pop a daily multivitamin. Draelos says to look for one that includes selenium, copper, iron, and zinc. The required amount of each depends on your age and sex, so clear the breakdown with your doctor first.

PROBLEM: It's impossible to avoid the sun entirely.

We don’t know anyone who gets excited to discover a new sun spot on her face. Even less thrilling? Allover hyperpigmentation, which can result in mottled skin. Sun damage is also a main cause of weakened collagen — and the slack, dull skin that comes with it.

SOLUTION: 

We know you know, but do it: Wear. Sunscreen. No treatment will be effective as long as your skin is still exposed. Next — and, OK, you probably know this, too — use a product with retinol every night. It will protect existing collagen from breaking down and build more of the structural protein, says Gohara. Then add in a serum or a cream with a brightening ingredient, like kojic acid or arbutin (try iS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance+) to fade dark spots.

PROBLEM: Hormones go out of whack.

When hormone levels fluctuate — because of puberty, menopause, medications, or other uncontrollable circumstances — they often affect the appearance of skin. Just look at what happens when estrogen dips, leaving a higher proportion of testosterone: Skin can get oilier, and greasiness creates a surface shine that accentuates pores and makes your skin look less glow-y. And melasma, a hormonal form of hyperpigmentation, leaves you with dark patches that don’t fade with topical brighteners because the pigment takes hold in both the uppermost and deeper layers of skin, says Arielle Kauvar, a clinical professor of dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center.

SOLUTION: 

Blotting sheets and clay masks get excess oil off your skin. But if that’s not enough, your dermatologist can prescribe a medication, like the Pill or spironolactone, to treat the hormonal cause of oiliness. For stubborn melasma, ask your dermatologist about prescribing hydroquinone or obliterating the pigment with a YAG laser or Fraxel treatment.